Valentine’s Day with the Donkey, the Poet and the Saint

By Cliff Rames © 2012

Indisputably the color of Valentine’s Day is red. Red hearts. Red roses. Red candy. Red velvet. Red blushing of the cheeks when one is happily asked by a secret admirer or sweetheart to “be my Valentine”.

Often the wine of the day is red too. Malbec, pinot noir, Rioja, Barolo, merlot and cabs are perennial favorites among mainstream consumers. While some of those wines may be fine choices, if you’re looking to impress your sweetheart with your creativity and red wine savvy, why not go with something a bit more adventurous and unique – like plavac mali from Croatia. 🙂

Exceptions to the February 14th red wine rule exist, of course. Last week Wine Spectator magazine published an article entitled “Oysters, Caviar and Sauvignon Blanc for Valentine’s Day” – a tempting and sexy suggestion that is bound to excite and convince some red wine drinkers to break with tradition and cross over to the white side.

Valentine’s Day is also a time when there is much chatter – and debate and disagreement – about wine and chocolate pairing. Is it a match made in heaven? The answer – especially in regard to dry wines – is probably not. Very sweet foods will make dry wine taste astringent and bitter. Wines with some residual sugar sweetness may succeed, but it’s hit or miss. To paraphrase a famous quote from Forrest Gump, when it comes to wine and chocolate pairing, “you never know what you’re gonna get”.  😉

But in case you’re really curious, we already did some of the matchmaking work for you – with mixed results – in an earlier post, Wine & Chocolate: Can Bura Dingac Find True Love This Valentine’s Day? Check it out and let us know if you have had luck with other wine and chocolate combinations. If you still remain a skeptic about the merits of the pairing, you have an ally in Remy Charest, whose excellent article called About That Wine and Chocolate Thing is quite educational and compelling.  

By far the most intriguing argument in favor of red wine at Valentine’s Day stems from a widely-circulated article in Wine Enthusiast Magazine called “Women and Wine: Red-Rules”. The article cites a study from the University of Florence (Italy) in which it was discovered that moderate consumption of red wine seems to increase a woman’s libido: “Women who consumed one to two glasses of wine a day reported an enhanced sexual appetite and improved sexual performance… researchers from the University of Florence study believe certain chemical compounds in red wine increased (sic) blood flow to one’s erogenous areas, ultimately causing an influx of sexual stimulation.”

Very interesting, indeed!  🙂

So – if you are now convinced that red wine is the way to go on Valentine’s Day, below you’ll find three Croatian red wine suggestions – all made from the indigenous plavac mali grape – to help tickle your fancy this Valentine’s Day. We’ve nicknamed them “the Donkey”, “the Poet” and “the Saint”, for reasons you’ll soon discover.

(photo by Cliff Rames)

Your choice of which wine to serve will depend on your mood, expectations and needs. If you want to release your inner animal and really romp, go for the playful power of the Donkey. If a more romantic, nuanced and sensitive approach is appropriate, let the Poet serenade and seduce you. If the evening demands a little divine intervention or magic touch, call upon the Saint.

Whatever your choice, each of these wines is delicious in its own right, full of character, charm, and mystique. All three wines are bursting with sexy, sun-drenched flavors of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast – where there just happens to be a heart-shaped island. You certainly can’t get hotter than that for Valentine’s Day!

1. “The Donkey”: Vinarija Dingac 2006 Dingač. This is the original, timeless Croatian classic with the donkey mascot on the label. It’s packed with savory fruit and earth aromas of dried fig and plum, brambly blackberries and cherry, licorice, rusted iron and iodine mineral notes, and a touch of leather. Funky yet friendly, this premium wine from the local cooperative on the Pelješac peninsula was aged in large, old wooden vats and has a touch of residual sugar that helps offset the dry, dusty tannins and gives roundness to the slightly baked fruit flavors. At 14% alcohol, it’s big but not overly powerful and shows a beautiful translucent garnet color. Enjoy with steak with black truffle butter and grilled portabella mushrooms or seafood risotto. And yes, there is enough viscosity and sweetness in the wine to hold up to a mild dessert. It works particularly well with the beloved hazelnut nougat chocolate from Croatia called Bajadera.  🙂

(photo by Cliff Rames)

2. “The Poet”: Miloš 2006 Plavac. Proprietor and winemaker Frano Miloš is known to recite his poetry for lucky visitors to his winery in Ston on the southern-most shores of the Pelješac peninsula. And like the man, his wines are sublime and slow to open. But when they do, they speak candidly and romantically of the place from which they came and of the struggle to remain kind and gentle in such a harsh, rustic and unforgiving landscape. “In hues the colors pour through the glass, reflecting shades in motion. In their layers they speak, narrate, whisper of a time of hardship” writes Frano. The 2006 Miloš Plavac delivers “garnet color with a salmon edge. Nose of red roses, autumn floor, mushrooms, and earth give way to red fruits and well rounded tannins. Frano oversees a simple vinification with natural yeasts, and 12 months in neutral Slavonian oak followed by 24 months bottle aging before release” (tasting notes by Blue Danube Wine Company).

(By the way: That earlier reference to oysters and Sauvignon Blanc? The good news is that Plavac Mali seems to be one of the rare red wines that can successfully pair with oysters. Read about it here and decide for yourself: Shucking Plavac.)

3. “The Saint”: Saints Hills 2008 Dingač, St. Lucia vineyard. The latest heir to the cult wine throne in Croatia, its prestige further fueled by famous wine consultant Michel Rolland’s involvement with the winery. This single-vineyard wine is made from plavac mali grapes grown on the steep, sun-drenched, seaside slopes of Croatia’s most-prized vineyard appellation: Dingač. Fermented in large wooden vats and aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, this full-bodied wine is rich with sun-baked black fruits, roasted herbs, dried fig, licorice and spice. Powerful (15.5% ABV) yet soft and elegant, this wine would do well to accompany braised beef short ribs, roast lamb, wood fire-grilled meats and fish, aged hard cheeses – and even dark bittersweet chocolate.  🙂

(photo by Cliff Rames)

A New Book about Plavac Mali: Obligatory Reading for Wine Patriots

Article by Saša Špiranec, courtesy of Playboy Magazine – Croatia

Translated by Morana Zibar, www.Gastroprijevod.com

Edited by Cliff Rames, Wines of Croatia

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I don’t usually write reviews which are not about wine. But one exceptionally valuable book forced me to compose my first book review. Luckily for me and my readers, the subject of the book is wine, which gives this review some credibility.

The book is called “Plavac Mali – A Croatian Grape for Great Wines”, written by Edi Maletić, Ivan Pejić and Jasminka Karoglan Kontić.

(Editor’s note: The Plavac Mali book was expertly translated into English by Jagoda Bush.)

The Croatian wine scene already owes a lot to this trio of scientists (with some more stress on the first two names), and this book is just a logical continuation of their productive and valuable work. Remember, it was these scientists who discovered the origins of Plavac Mali, as well as the fact that Zinfandel is actually a Croatian variety called Crljenak.

Crljenak Kastelanski

This trio of scientists also identified Malvasia Istriana as an indigenous grape, and then discovered that Malvasija Dubrovačka belongs to the same family as numerous Italian and Spanish Malvasias, like Malvasia delle Lipari.

Malvasija Dubrovačka

Let’s not forget that they also saved a large number of indigenous grape varieties that were previously on the brink of extinction, and they have published many scientific papers. Edi Maletić is also publishes texts in mainstream magazines, and I must admit that I’ve enjoyed reading his columns for years. His style of writing is at first somewhat dry, factual and scientific. But he eventually incorporates interesting stories to which the general public can relate without losing their scientific value.

Plavac Mali grapes at Dingač

Their new Plavac Mali book is an example of such a style. It is extremely serious and competent, but written entertainingly enough so that anyone can (and must) read it. The most important parts deal with ampelography, which means that the book provides clear evidence of the origin of Plavac Mali, explains and defends the science behind the identification of the Croatian origin of Zinfandel (Crljenak), clears some misconceptions about the many local synonyms for Plavac Mali, and establishes and explains the relationship between Plavac Mali and other Dalmatian varieties.

Plavac Mali vineyards, Hvar

Other parts of the book are also interesting, especially the section that explains the specific conditions required to transform Plavac Mali from a mediocre to a superior wine.

It is very interesting to know that this book was proposed and funded by the “Grozd” Plavac Mali Association. This is unique in that Grozd is an association of Plavac Mali consumers and enthusiasts – not winemakers. The fact that an association of consumers has contributed to the expansion and sales of a wine – more than all professional associations of winemakers and winegrowers together – is somewhat amazing. With the honorable exception of Vinistra, many Croatian associations of winemakers are not doing much, or if they are, we don’t see many results. In Grozd’s case, the result is fantastic: an excellent book about a unique and important grape variety which will be cited and used for decades.

Reviews of four excellent Plavac wines from three different vintages:

 
 
 

Photo courtesy of Korta Katarina winery

Korta Katarina Dingač 2006

Excellent vintage from a very ambitious winery. Its aroma is still dominated by the lingering presence of oak, which detracts from its appeal. But in the mouth it shows perfect harmony. The tannins are abundant but not astringent. The balance of alcohol, extracts and acids is excellent, and the finish is very long-lasting. Wait at least another year before drinking.

 

 
 
 

Photo by Cliff Rames

Bura Dingač 2007

Dingač is a superior vineyard site that managed to handle the very hot 2007 vintage well. While other Plavac wines from the same vintage are often overly mature already and somewhat dull, Bura’s high, mountainside vineyards are cool enough to give this almost concentrated wine the necessary balance and the final smoothness. Excellent wine.

 
 
 

Photo by Tomislav Gluhak

Mare Postup 2007

Unlike Bura, Mare did not manage to stop the high level of sugar in the grapes, so part of the sugars remained in the wine, making it a bit sweetish. But at the same time the aromas are uniquely nice and intense. Dry figs, prunes and walnuts prevail. Beautiful wine. It is not a wine meant to be paired with food, but a glass or two of this sweet nectar at the close of the day makes an unforgettable experience.

 
 
 

Photo by Cliff Rames

Saints Hills Dingač 2008

This wine has not yet reached the market, but it is already on the way to become one of the best. It has a beautiful smell of pure Dingač aromas, like prunes, baked cherries and traces of dried figs mixed with finely balanced oak notes. The taste is extraordinary, incredibly mature for such an early vintage, amazingly balanced, rich and delicious, with tamed tannins, and in the end, despite its obvious strength, adequately soft and smooth.

Note from the Editor: Wines of Croatia is now accepting pre-orders for the Plavac Mali book. Limited quantities will be available in the U.S. in September 2010 – exclusively from Wines of Croatia. If you wish to reserve your copy, please email: info@winesofcroatia.com. Price: $35 (includes USPS Priority shipping to addresses in the U.S.; additional shipping costs will apply to addresses outside the U.S.)

Wines of Croatia:

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Wine & Chocolate: Can Bura Dingač Find True Love this Valentines Day?

If red wine and chocolate were potential mates searching for each other on eHarmony, some would undoubtedly question their compatibility. Certainly the jury is still out on whether red wine and chocolate is a match made in heaven or a disastrous waste of talent.

Among some wine writers and critics (e.g. Eric Asimov, NY Times), the mention of such a pairing evokes gasps of horror. This group would seemingly prefer that the two swinging singles remain as they should be: happily separate.

Other voices (Paul Grieco, owner of Hearth restaurant and Terroir wine bar in NYC) praise and adore the decadent intersection of the two dark masters.

As Valentine’s Day approaches, and Blogs and Tweets are abuzz with the subject, I decided to find out for myself.

There was never a question about which red wine I would choose: Without a moment’s hesitation I opened the Bura 2007 from the Dingač region of Pelješac, a peninsula on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. The Bura Dingač is made from the primary native red grape of the region, Plavac Mali (an offspring of Zinfandel) and is a luxurious, cult, premium wine that delivers bold flavors on an off-dry, gently tannic, full-bodied frame. And at 16% alcohol, it is almost Port-like in character. I just had a feeling it would work.

I also knew that the Bura Dingač is the perfect Valentine’s Day wine. At $55 it is expensive, true. But on Valentine’s Day, aren’t we supposed to splurge on our sweeties?

Overwhelmingly the deciding factor was this: Bura Dingač is simply a stunningly pretty wine. It is beautiful in a steamy yet approachable, voluptuous yet elegant, deeply brooding yet spry, fabulously irresistible kind of way. It makes me think of love and romance, of that scene from “American Beauty” where is Mena Suvari lying naked, covered in rose petals. Does not chocolate evoke similar fantasies?

And then there’s the wine’s bouquet: Striking with sweet stewed fruit and spice aromas (black cherry, plum, fig, black currant jam, anise) with distinctive floral and earthy herbal notes – I detect a sexy, seductive mix of rose petals, lavender, black olive, pine wood, and – dark chocolate.

So far so good. My instincts told me that this wine would totally rise to the orgasmic when paired with one of my all-time favorite dishes from the Dalmatian islands: black risotto with squid (I also find that Bura Dingač displays a distinct note of iodine on the nose and really reminds me of the Adriatic Sea). But how would it perform against chocolate?

To find out I went to my local gourmet supermarket and chose four different varieties: 1) Lindt milk chocolate with liquid cherry filling; 2) Ghirardelli dark chocolate with raspberry cream filling; 3) Lindt dark chocolate with Fleur de Sel sea salt crystals; and 4) Dagoba organic dark chocolate with wild blueberries and lavender essence.

Here are the findings:

1) I chose the Lindt milk with dark cherry liquor because I thought the dark cherry would accent the similar notes in the wine while the smooth, creamy milk chocolate would match the texture of the wine. To some extent this held up in the tasting, and the cherry notes in both wine and chocolate really popped. But the overly sweet flavors in the chocolate suppressed the complexity of the wine and made it seem slightly astringent.  Rating: 2.5 (out of 5)

2) As with number 1, I felt that the raspberry notes in the Ghirardelli would nicely accentuate the luscious fruit character of the Bura, and the less sugary, earthier nature of the dark chocolate would allow more room for the wine to assert itself and find balance on the palate. The wine brought out the fruit notes in the chocolate but it lost a lot of its middle depth and became more tannic. Not that exciting. Rating: 2 (out of 5)

3) This is my favorite chocolate bar in the world: Lindt dark with sea salt. It’s lightly sweet with a good tooth bite that gives way to creaminess on the tongue, accented by the saline crunch of sea salt crystals. Divine! I hoped that the mix of sweet and savory notes would highlight the similar qualities in the Bura. To my relief, this pairing performed better, with both the chocolate and wine holding up their ends of the deal and allowing each other to sing their respective parts. This was a sort of “nothing lost, nothing gained” match, with the wine becoming a bit more focused and fruity under the influence of the savory, earthy tones of the Lindt. Perfect pairing? No. But it’s interesting, fun and delicious. Rating: 3.5 (out of 5)

4) I’ll get right to the point: This is the hands down winner. The rule of thumb for any wine and food pairing is that each should not only compliment the other but raise the eating/drinking experience to another level. The Dagoba dark chocolate with wild blueberries and lavender essence is an unusual treat, but it delivered just the right combination of subtle sweetness, earthiness, fruit and floral notes to stand up to and highlight the similar profile of the Bura. No doubt, the lavender/blueberry duo (lavender grows wild in many of the fields that surround Plavac Mali vineyards in Croatia) lifts the same Mediterranean notes out of the wine and makes them dance on the palate. The transition is seamless: there is no looking for why this pairing should work. The magic just happens as the two sensations become one in a splendid, harmonious and deeply satisfying act of love-making. Rating: 4.5 (out of 5)

Like two people in any relationship, there are personality traits that are desired, admired and loved, and there are characteristics that repel, discourage and disappoint. Wine and chocolate, it seems, are no different. But find the right combination of traits and it is possible that, despite the odds, something wonderful can happen.

So introduce yourself to red wine and chocolate and see what happens. If all else fails, there’s always a dozen roses.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Text and Bura wine photos by Cliff Rames, Wines of Croatia

www.winesofcroatia.com; www.Facebook.com/winesofcroatia; www.Twitter.com/winesofcroatia

The Bura Dingač is imported by VinumUSA.